More from the seller:
Year: 1988
Make: Mazda
Model: RX-7
Price: $9000
Mileage: 130000
Color: Black
Private or Dealer Listing: Private Listing
Location (US State/Canada/Int): MI
Hi guys,
winter slow-to-sell price:
$8000 for complete car in “race spec”
or
$7000, without the cobra wheels or r-comp tires, no racing seat, and no wideband gauge. (car will be fully driveable on chrysler wheels and stock seat)
car is located in southeast MI, stored in the garage for the winter. Can start up and drive up and down the driveway, but not planning on allowing any real test drives until it warms up sorry.
Couple things about this car.
Dead reliable – completely daily driveable if you want to.
Completely obnoxious to daily drive. Manual steering, no insulation, no radio, noisy, hot, stiff, so it’s miserable as a daily driver, but the reliability is there.
I drive it to and from all autoX events, and to work once a week or so in the summer. Occasional cruising on weekends. (doesn’t overheat even moving 2mph on woodward weekend for hours)
It’s rusty.
So, onto the details..
Chassis
– 1988 hardtop GTU model (apparently one of the lightest FCs in stock form) 150k miles? on chassis
– interior fully stripped out minus dash and door panels. All non-essential mazda wiring has been eliminated.
– 5 lug brakes, 4 piston front brake calipers were stock on the 88 GTU.
– Wilwood reverse hanging dual MC balance bar brake pedal & clutch pedal assembly with wilwood MCs
– Wilwood bias adjustment **** on dash
– ARP extended wheel studs up front (stock rear studs)
– HP+ pads all around <3000 miles
– New Rotors all around <3000 miles ago
– OEM Terminator Cobra wheels 17×9 wrapped in Nitto NT01 275/40/17 all around (have a single spare wheel, also OEM)
– Corksport front wide fenders
– GAB revolution2 coilovers all around
– GAB camber plates (front)
– Polyurethane front LCA bushings
– Polyurethane Front swaybar bushings
– Solid endlinks for front swaybar
– DTSS eliminator bushings
– solid mounted rear S4(Salisbury type) T2 diff and rear subframe (http://www.norotors.com/index.php?topic=17733.0)
– Pinion brace dogbone mod (see http://www.norotors.com/index.php?to…0803#msg250803)
– 3 hole power steering rack totally depowered – pistons removed, quill TIG welded solid, greased and sealed
– MOMO fixed back racing seat
– factory heat works, no AC
– Wing seen in some pictures not included in sale.
– custom steel cowl hood (needs paint currently, will paint once it is warm again)
Engine
– 2000 LM7 5.3L iron block v8 (100k miles or so according to guy I bought the engine from. I believe him.
– 4th gen F-body accessories (Water pump, harmonic balancer, alternator bracket, tensioner
– truck alternator
– modified 2000 truck wiring harness, pcm
– ARP crank bolt
– 4th gen F-body oil pan
– improved racing trap door oil pan baffle
– 1-5/8″ longtube BBK headers (ford 5.0 fox headers with flanges swapped for LS pattern)
– dual reservoir oil accumulators with ball valve (-10 AN line) dual tank pressure gauge on dash
– -10AN braided line to and from FC oil cooler
– 3″ exhaust running through magnaflow muffler and fart can with 4″ tip
– Exhaust scavenge welded into y pipe, lines ran, but need to add fittings to valve covers to complete
– “CAI” routed to front of inner fender area, outside of engine bay
Drivetrain
– LS7 clutch + flywheel
– 2002 T-56 from f-body.
– pro5.0 short shifter
– delrin shift ****
Cooling
– all aluminum radiator – soft mounted with S10 rubber radiator mount bushings
– e-fan and full aluminum shroud
Fuel
– -6 stainless steel braided teflon fuel line from tank to rail, and back again
– Aeromotive Stealth 340 in tank fuel pump
General swap stuff
– Grannys v8 swap kit (mounts, trans mount, d-shaft, (solid engine mounts, poly trans mount bushing))
– Integra digital speedometer to work with digital speedo signal from GM pcm (looks factory minus needle color)
– giant S10 sized duralast gold truck battery behind passenger seat for no-worry starts all the time
– AEM wideband feeding into PCM (and a gauge on dash)
Can include XP class magnet if you’d like. Not the prettiest car, but it can’t get any more reliable than this.